Arbuckle Mountains History
The Bottom Line Whether your interest lies in geology, serene beauty and breathtaking scenic settings, or fun-filled outdoor activities, the Arbuckle Mountains are ideal for both day trips and family vacations.
Many times I've stood fearlessly atop mountains that were taller than the Himalayas, looking out over an area that has been millions of years in the making. Now, before I go fooling anyone into thinking I'm brave, I should point out the key word here is "were". Although it is generally believed that millions of years ago, the Arbuckle Mountains of Southern Oklahoma were as tall as the Himalayas, thrill seeking mountain climbers and lovers of heights might now consider them not much more than big hills at their present height of bout 700 ft. above the Prairie. What caused such a drastic change? If you ask around, you are likely to hear a popular tale of how the Washita River rushed against the base of the mountains until they just toppled over. It makes for a good story, and goes well with the explanation for the rock formations that rise up at unusual angles, but the real story is told by the only true witnesses to the events all those years ago--The Arbuckles themselves.
These mountains are generally acknowledged as being among the oldest on the Earth and the information preserved within the geology tells not only the story of their own existence, but says a lot about the development of the entire Earth. Fossilized evidence from almost every geological era, including the Pre-Cambrian period * is found within their formations. Undergoing dramatic topographical changes over millions of years, they were there when the oldest known life forms squirmed the Earth. They watched the dinosaur come and go. They sank below sea level not once, but twice-and emerged triumphantly with the deposited evidence. Already ancient when the Great Rocky Mountains were being formed, the Arbuckles are thought to have been as massive as the Rockies are today, but millions of years have essentially worn them down to the root--exposing for scientists and geologists the secrets within them.
Legends in Rock
Note: mya = million years ago
The story begins with the formation of the continental crust of the Midcontinent, as told by the 1.35 billion year old granites in the region. During the late Paleozoic Era (some 565 mya), tremendous pressure underground resulted in the Great Uplift that formed these mountains. The thick layers of sedimentary rock that had been deposited horizontally in the inland seas now became uplifted, folded and faulted-exposing the older rock beneath and forming new deposits. The large scale faulting formed a rift valley filled with volcanoes that eventually covered most of the valley floor with Rhyolite flows, (about 550 mya.) followed by alternating deposits of limestone, dolomite, sandstone, and shale (525-450 mya) from the shallow seas as the area had now sunk below sea level. The accumulation of limestone and clastic materials continued until about 310 mya., when the area underwent a major deformation that brought it back above sea level. The region again dipped below sea level 110 million years ago and rose again around 60 million years ago.
It is a combination of the age and the chain of events that occurred in the region over millions of years that make the Arbuckle Mountains visibly remarkable, abundant in mineral resources, and a rare setting for world-class geological study. Some of the oldest known Trilobites and Anomites have been found in this area. These and many other remains, traces and imprints of plant and animal life found in the Arbuckles are Paleontologically significant in understanding the history of life on Earth.
A Short Drive
The best view of the Arbuckles is about a 10 mile stretch on Hwy 77 (just off I-35) South of Davis, Oklahoma, but a leisurely drive may take an hour or so. Certainly longer if you take the time to stop and enjoy the spectacular views or examine the geology.
Rock formations originally deposited horizontally are now faulted, twisted, thrust, and inverted. Rising up at unusual angles, these outcroppings represent an excellent demonstration of the powerful forces of nature. Though the effects are visible pretty much every where you look, highway cuts expose some extreme examples of the distorted rock. ( Interstate-35 has an amazing 156 ft. deep cut exposing completely vertical rock layers. ) . Another visibly interesting aspect of the topography are the "Tombstone" areas, easily seen as you drive over the mountains. These unusual slabs of rock seem to thrust up from the ground in rows and are evidence of uneven erosion in the limestone layers. It's easy to see how they got their name, as they look very much like crude headstones and are scattered over large areas and resemble enormous ancient cemeteries.
The Arbuckles--for the fun of it
You don't have to be a rock hound to appreciate both the breathtaking beauty of this region and the numerous attractions in and around the area. Driving over these mountains you'll be unable to miss Turner Falls Park, nestled in the valley. An turn-out on Hwy 77 offers a spectacular view from above of this, the oldest park in Oklahoma, featuring a spring fed waterfall that cascades 77 feet into a natural swimming pool. The park offers numerous swimming areas, nature trails, small caves, and unique rock "castles" built in the 1930's to explore.
Just a few miles away is Arbuckle Wilderness, a drive though exotic animal park that also features a walk though zoo and a fun park that includes paddle boat rides, go carts, camel rides, arcade, playground and more.
Keep going, and at the foothills of the mountains you'll find the state's first national park: the Chickasaw National Recreation Area. This park is famous for both it's geological and hydrological features, and is world famous for the natural bromide "healing" springs. The area lies in a transition zone where the eastern forest meets the western prairie, so it boasts flora and fauna from both environments. Recreation-wise, visitors find the park excellent for swimming, picnicking, boating, fishing, hiking, hunting, and camping. Veteran's Lake is great for camping with it's quiet park-like atmosphere or for a full range of water activities, the Lake of the Arbuckles is ideal.
There is so much to see and do in this area, you may find yourself wanting to stay a day or two. In addition to the numerous campground facilities in and around the Arbuckle Mountains, Bed and Breakfasts and rustic cabin rentals are popular, and there are plenty of motels located close to the attractions.
Whether your interest lies in ancient rock and exploration, serene beauty and breathtaking scenic settings, or fun filled outdoor activities, there is something for everyone in the Arbuckle Mountain region, making the area ideal for both day trips and family vacations.